Dr Jill Nash

What do you like to do on holiday?
I always find it difficult to ‘sit and do nothing’, so I usually tend to go on yoga breaks, diving trips or active holidays, where I can indulge in both exercise and a bit of relaxation! I also love sightseeing, so hitting a few historical landmarks is always high on my agenda!

Where did you last go?
My last work trip was St. Moritz in Switzerland, but my last ‘holiday’ (without the need to review or write-up), was Sorrento, Italy.

Do you know where you’re going this year?
As a travel writer I’m always planning ahead for press trips, so 2012 is already pretty busy with both work trips and family holidays.  For work I’m heading to Chicago, Southern Spain, Dubai and Cornwall. For family holidays I’ve booked Sicily, Lanzarote and the South of France. But it’s likely a few more trips will be booked, before the year is out!

The Philippines

Of all the places you’ve been to, what was your favourite and why?
It’s difficult to answer, as all the destinations I’ve visited have their strong points. I particularly loved the Philippines though for the incredible diving and pristine beaches.

Which destination do you wish to travel to, but haven’t yet been?
Canada. It’s been on my list for quite a while!

In your own country, what would you recommend tourists see that isn’t in the travel guides?
I’m originally from the Lake District, and obviously most of it is covered in the guidebooks. However, Grassmere is my favourite spot. Especially the Gingerbread factory, the local walks and the small boutique eco-friendly ‘Moss Grove Lodge’, which is a chic and friendly place to stay.

How do you plan your holiday?
I plan my own trips independently. Sometimes I’ll go off friends recommendations – or from other fellow travel writers.

How often do you go away?
For work, at least twice a month. But this could be anywhere from Leeds to Laos! On average I’m away 70 per cent of the year.

Who do you travel with?
If it’s for work, then I usually go solo or team up with other journalists. If my husband has the time, he will travel with me or sometimes I’ll travel with my daughter – if its not long haul.

The Lake District

Where do you see tourism in your country, in 10 years?
I think domestically, tourism will continue to grow as there will always be locals who want to stay ‘close to home’. Obviously places such as the Lake District, Cornwall and Wales will always be popular for family holidays. Its difficult to say in terms of foreign tourism, I guess that largely depends on the global economy.

Dr. Jill Nash is a Cheshire based travel journalist and owner of independent guidebook publishing company ‘Luxury Backpackers’. Visit www.luxurybackpackers.com for more details on her best-selling guidebooks, including her new book, ‘Family Adventures in Style’ RRP £16.00

And, in another coup for Irish tourism, Prince Albert and Princess Charlene of Monaco will join the Irish Ambassador to France and Monaco, Paul Kavanagh, tonight to ‘green’ the façade of the Prince’s Palace of Monaco in honour of St Patrick. March 17 also sees the Sydney Opera House take on a green hue once again.

This ‘greening’ activity is part of a global initiative by Tourism Ireland whereby landmark sites such as Selfridges and the London Eye (London), Niagara Falls, the Leaning Tower of Pisa, Burj al Arab in Dubai and the Oriental Pearl TV Tower in Shanghai turn a shade of green for the weekend.

“St Patrick’s Day traditionally marks the real start of the tourism season for us and we’re delighted to be continuing our ‘greening’ initiative again this year,” said Niall Gibbons, chief executive of Tourism Ireland. “Our aim is to bring a smile to the faces of people around the world, while also showcasing our wonderful tourism offering to a huge global audience”.
 

But it seems that the sensible desert kingdom (Abu Dhabi didn’t bat an eyelid when forced to bail out its bling-tastic brother, Dubai, to the tune of £6.3 billion a few years back) is already doing something right.

Word has reached CD-Traveller towers that the number of guests staying in the emirate’s 127 hotels, hotel apartments and resorts rose by 29 per cent in January 2012 compared to the same month the previous year, according to figures released by Abu Dhabi Tourism & Culture Authority.

During January some 198,139 guests stayed in the emirate, with the number of guest nights also rising, this time by 20 per cent to 571,672. The UK produced a 15 per cent increase to 13,005 guests.

Revenue for Abu Dhabi’s hotels rose to £70 million (AED408 million) in January 2012, an increase of 11 per cent on January 2011. Food and beverage revenue rose 18 per cent during the same period to £26.6 million (AED155.3 million). Hotel occupancy stabilized at 66 per cent – the same rate as January 2010.

Fancy following in the footsteps of the likes of Lewis Hamilton, Novak Djokovic, Dannii Minogue and Ronaldo – all of whom have been spotted in the UAE’s capital (and richest and biggest emirate)? Check out our article on what to see and do in Abu Dhabi.

The analysis by the government found there were 371,000 foreign-born claimants for out-of-work benefits, out of a total 5.5 million recipients. Of these, 258,000 were from outside the European Economic Area.

The stats will no doubt make many British citizens wary of migrants. This shouldn’t be so. Most immigrants come to the UK to work and make a massive contribution to Britain – especially London.

However I can’t help questioning why so many migrants, are allowed to claim benefits such as the jobseeker’s allowance. I say this as someone who has spent the last five years working abroad in the Middle East, Caribbean and Asia.

I chose to go abroad partly out of a desire to travel and see some of the world, but also because job opportunities in my field (the media) were (and are) few and far between in Britain. There are many positives to working overseas but there are negative too: namely as a Brit, I had limited rights. It is not something I thought about when the party was in full swing but, when the good times stopped rolling (around 2009) I learnt the hard way that I had to fend for myself.

I was living and working in the Cayman Islands at the time and when my company was forced to face up to reality of the recession and make cutbacks, was given – along with my housemate and a whole host of foreign friends in the same boat – two weeks to find another job or get off the island. Meanwhile former colleagues living and working in Dubai faced deportation. As for China? Without a working visa – which is only valid if you have a job – you’re on your own.

Don’t get me wrong: I am by no means anti immigration as I hope my interview with Holocaust survivor, Hermann Hirschberger (www.cd-traveller.com/2010/01/20/lest_we_forget/) helps make clear. However if Brits have limited benefit rights abroad, surely it’s only right and fair that the same rule applies to immigrants to the UK?

A highlight of the Thai participation at WTM is the Amazing Thailand Bus: a traditional London double-decker, emblazoned with the Thai tourism campaign colours. It was used to transport all the Thai delegates to the ExCel Exhibition Centre on Monday. Tanes Petsuwan, TAT director (Europe) who was present to greet the Amazing Thailand Bus when it arrived at WTM, was looking forward to the grand opening of the Thailand pavilion, despite worries about his father’s house being flooded at home.
This year’s pavilion featured exotic Thai fruit carving demonstrations and a tasting area. One of the main events was when HRH Princess of Thailand, Ubolratana Rajakanya, presented the Tourism Authority of Thailand with the Green UK Travel Awards.
Mrs Juthaporn Rerngronasa, the TAT’s Deputy Governor for International Marketing, (Europe, Africa, Middle East and the Americas) said: “This is now the start of the traditional Thai tourism high season period, during which visitor arrivals play an important role for job creation and income generation.

HRH Princess of Thailand, Ubolratana Rajakanya

It should be clear by now that the flooding situation will soon be over, and people will need to resume their normal lives. That’s when the support of all our worldwide travel industry friends and partners will be very important.”
Mrs Juthaporn noted that the flooding mainly affected the central provinces along the rivers including some outer parts of Bangkok, residential suburbs and industrial zones. The central part of Bangkok where tourists normally go has not been flooded other than a few locations along the Chao Phraya River during high tides. Suvarnabhumi Airport remains well protected and open. Transportation from the airport into central Bangkok is also running as normal and visitors catching connecting flights to other destinations are able to do so without any problems. Flood waters in Ayutthaya and some other central provinces are starting to subside, and tourist attractions in Ayutthaya will be operational by month’s end.

Speaking at WTM, Mrs Juthaporn said: “Thai tourism has proven to be very resilient in the past, recovering quickly when faced with difficult times. Thailand and the UK have also always enjoyed a close friendship and strong bonds. Once the flooding situation is over, TAT also hopes that more and more travellers from the UK and Ireland will visit Thailand.” She said that the Royal Thai government along with the private sector, NGOs and people from all walks of life will work closely together to recover and regain international confidence. “Big cleaning days and site restoration in major affected tourist attractions, as well as comprehensive CSR and volunteerism programmes will be launched. Both Thai and foreign tourists will be invited to participate in the restoration.
We anticipate that life will be very much back to normal within a few weeks’ time to help us proceed with the auspicious occasion of the 84th birthday of His Majesty the King. On December 5, visitors will be amazed by millions of candle lights from the Thai people both in Thailand and overseas to celebrate the birthday of our beloved King.”

She added: “The TAT is committed to ensure that the UK remains one of our top source markets from Europe. Thailand welcomed almost 635,000 UK visitors during January – September 2011 with a growth of seven per cent over last year.”
British visitors are now coming to Thailand all year around rather than mostly in the winter months, as was the case in the past. They also have a high percentage of repeat visitors. On the aviation front, there are currently 35 direct scheduled flights per week between Bangkok and London being operated by four airlines – THAI Airways International, British Airways, Qantas and Eva Airways. Other airlines also bring visitors to Thailand through other points of the UK and intermediary hubs like Dubai, Singapore and Hong Kong. In January 2012, Emirates will start flying from Dublin. If you are travelling to Thailand in the near future, the key message is to be prepared. DO refer to the FAQS HERE.

To make matters worse, a Qantas flight from Sydney to London was forced to make an emergency landing in Dubai on Friday, after an engine shut down, angering passengers including Stephen Fry.

Fry, who was returning to London after touring Australia with his television programme QI, tweeted to his 3.3 million followers:”Bugger. Forced to land in Dubai. And engine has decided not to play.”

Fry’s misfortune occurred exactly one year since a Qantas flight from London to Sydney, was forced to land at Singapore after an engine exploded, causing the airline to ground its fleet at a cost of £30 million.

What do you make of it all? Would you risk booking your next flight with Qantas? Or do believe that the Australian airline has had its day?

While Dubai excels in many areas, it doesn’t do well ecologically. Worryingly the UAE has one of the largest ecological footprints (signifying a lifestyle that wastes resources) in the world, second only to the USA. On the fashion front in particular, Dubaians have been slow in extreme when it comes to embracing clothes that they can feel good about – as well as look good in.

Part of the reluctance can be attributed to cost; prices for ethical clothing (encompassing organic cotton, fair trade clothes and garments made from recycled material) can be steep, meaning that they can’t easily be factored into a weekly retail recce in the same way that garments from Stradivarius and Swedish stalwart H&M can. Yet while it’s understandable that the emirate’s expats love a bargain, you have to wonder why high street fashion fixes are so, well, cheap. And the conclusions you’ll come too (cotton picked by a child in the third world before being sewn together in a sweatshop) combine to make the boot sale prices a whole lot less attractive…

Ethical clothes have also suffered from a severe image problem in the past. Think of the dreadlocked eco warrior Swampy and you’ll get what we mean. Let’s face it; the hippy look was never going to take off in bling- bedecked Dubai.

Fortunately fashion forward, environmentally aware Dubaians are finally finding that they have more appealing – dare we say it, stylish even – options. And while some remain limited to those with fat wallets (and thin frames), not all of them need cost an arm and limb. Dubai might be way behind the likes of London and New York, but there are places where locals, expats and tourists alike can pick up something pretty and know that their actions didn’t harm the environment – or exploit workers in the developing world.

The budget conscious should give vintage a chance and check out Dubai’s charity shop scene. Buying second hand clothes is so much kinder to the environment; you’ll save on all the energy used in producing and shipping a new garment. Cruise over to Karama (ideally in a hybrid car) and seek out the Dubai Charity shop (04 337 8246) and Al Noor Thrift shop (04 297 9989). Others worth a rummage around include Rashid Paediatric Therapy Centre (04 294 5998) and the granddaddy of Dubai’s charity shops – Holy Trinity (04 337 8192).

Straddling the middle ground is Gap’s flagship store over in Deira City Centre. The first Gap store in Dubai, stocks the ‘Product Red’ range and pleasing all profits from products that fall under the red banner are donated to a fund fighting Aids, malaria and TB in Africa. Alongside Gap, there’s Marks & Spencer who launched its own Fair Trade line a few years back. Meanwhile Timberland sells eco-friendly footwear made with vegetable tanned leather and recycled rubber soles and has introduced a reforestation project whereby they plant one tree for each pair of boots sold.

S*uce

At the upper end of the feel good shopping spectrum is S*uce over at the Village mall. This achingly hip boutique has long been a favourite of the CD Traveller team when in Dubai, but now we have an excuse (as if we needed one) to flex the plastic. The trendy Jumeirah store stocks eco themed t-shirts designed by DVF, Missoni, Mossy and co to raise funds for Al Gore’s The Climate Project.

Children aren’t entirely neglected at ½ Pint; the brain-child of Dubai based fashion designer Mariam El-Accad. The clothes range (which caters for children from six months to seven years) isn’t organic as yet, but Mariam does her bit for the environment through her packaging and presentation. The brightly coloured clothes – guaranteed to lift little ones spirits – are displayed on wooden hangers rather than plastic ones and come in cotton pouches which can be used by the consumer to store shoes etc in. Elsewhere bags and business cards are made from recycled paper and designed to look like gift bags. Says Mariam: ‘I encourage customers to re-use them to give gifts in, so that the packaging is at least used again preventing more from being purchased.’ Furthermore all the clothes have been made in Mariam’s Satwa workshop, helping to reduce the UAE’s ecological footprint.

Of course your going to have to make room in your wardrobe for your new eco chic purchases, so why not invite family and friends around for a wardrobe swap – the so called ‘switch and bitch’ trend has swept New York. The premise is disarmingly simple; everyone brings a few unwanted items they want to trade be they Mango or Marc Jacobs. With a bit of luck one person’s junk will be another’s fashion booty and everyone will leave happy – hopefully with an outfit for free. At the end of the party, send the unclaimed clothing to a charity shop. CD Traveller is an ardent supporter of these so-called ‘switch and bitch’ parties. Easy on the environment and your wallet, what’s not to love?

Al Maha

However ethical consumerism isn’t limited solely to fashion. The glitzy emirate has an eco friendly holiday retreat on the doorstep in Al Maha, www.al-maha.com (checking in for a long week-end here, will grant you more kudos than taking a carbon flight to the Maldives), and on the food front, there’s the institution that is the Organic Food café (www.organicfoodsandcafe.com). Not only is all food organic, but the store has a conscious food miles policy and refuses to import goods from say the States. Instead produce is bought from India and Egypt – in other words closer to home.  Nils, the owner, also uses ‘biodegradable trays for meat and veg as opposed to plastic ones’ (helping to reduce the estimated 40kg of plastic consumption per capita per year across the Gulf) and rewards conscientious customers. For instance, the company sells cotton bags and customers who reuse them during future shopping sprees, see Dhs2 shaved off bills of more than Dhs100.

A caffeine fiend? Next time you’re in a coffee bar, ask for your latte to be served in a mug rather than a Styrofoam cup. The mug can be easily washed and used again by another customer, whereas the polystyrene packaging will most likely end up in a landfill site.

Meanwhile beauty queens can stock up on Shiffa – a lavish, all natural, organic skin care and body line range – at spas such as Amara (http://dubai.park.hyatt.com/hyatt/pure/spas/) and Madinat Jumeirah (http://www.jumeirah.com/hotels-and-resorts/destinations/dubai/madinat-jumeirah/) and Harvey Nichols and Saks Fifth Avenue at the Mall of the Emirates (www.malloftheemirates.com).

Elsewhere those looking for authentic Dubai gifts to give to friends and family back home, should try the Trucial Coast line (available at the Organic store) which sells goods such as unbleached cotton t-shirts depicting the UAE coastline, that come in cute drawstring bags.

Yes Dubai’s rampant consumerism – if channelled correctly – could actually be part of the solution to environmental concerns rather than the problem, for arguably one of the easiest ways that we can build a better world is through our purchases and choices as consumers. With a little thought we can shop ourselves, as well as the planet, to a brighter future. Green is evidently en vogue – and fingers crossed, this is one trend that’s here to stay.

For more information on how to shop ethically visit www.ethicalconsumer.org or www.responsibleshopper.org

Sun, sand and camel rides

Bored of lying on a beach all day? Camel riding – which offers a unique opportunity to spend your holiday in Dubai doing something different from lazing by your hotel pool, frying yourself in the sun or schlepping around the shopping centres – is where it’s at. Every tour operator under the sun (we went with Orient Tours;www.orient-tours.ae) includes a camel ride as part of their half day desert safari tour and thankfully, given that my riding experience was restricted to rocking-horses from my childhood days, no experience is necessary. As our guide – the amiable Yarif – was quick to emphasise, camel riding is open to all regardless of ability.

The sun was doing its incredible Middle East thing as we pulled into the Bedouin camp where we would be spending the evening. A tableau of camels stood bathed in the yellow light, shifting daintily from hoof to hoof. When the handlers arrived, the camels folded down on gangly knees to let us up onto their saddles. But be warned when a camel comes up – if you aren’t ready – the sensation is akin to riding a catapult or in this case a camelpult. The camel lurches forward, its rump coming up first, which means you want to be leaning back or else you get your first flying lesson. Then the front comes up, meaning you need to switch to a forward lean so as to avoid getting your second flying lesson backwards. Like dancing, once you get the hang of it, you move with your partner in a smooth motion. CD Traveller was immediately smitten with our cud-chewing animal (expect to see camels constantly chewing – even when they haven’t eaten, they still find something to chew). Of course, not everyone is camel crazy… Several people reported not liking their camels, who made loud snorting sounds and shifted their weight erratically. But their complaints were swept aside by the local Bedouin and our four-footed, one-humped convoy took off along a vague trail through the desert. Our oddly shaped shadows spread along the sand, racing over the contours of the desert while the striated hills and valleys grew a deeper orange as the sun sank on the horizon. The sand itself seemed surprisingly soft and as fine as makeup powder, making it look like even if I fell off my camel it would be an easy landing.

We didn’t know where we were going, but I was content to allow my camel to pad hypnotically over the cinnamon covered sand while I drank in the views of the sparse, desert environment. Ship of the desert, ship of the desert, the wave of motion caught me into its rhythm as I made like Lawrence of Arabia. However all too soon, you’ll return to your origin where the camel-ships will do their sinking thing again, allowing you to disembark. Once upright, there’s the opportunity to take some snaps of the big brown-eyed creatures for the holiday albums. Meanwhile curious types can ask any questions they might have about the camel – the main source of survival of nomadic people in a hostile desert environment over centuries – and its nature.

As experiences go, riding a camel out in the true heart of Arabia should top any itinerary list – be sure to make it a must do when in the Middle East.

Quirky camel facts

The world population of camels is currently estimated at some 20 million. Somalia is believed to have the world’s largest herd, with almost as many camels as humans.

World production of camel milk for human consumption is officially put at 1.3 million tonnes – 500 times less than cow’s milk.

Camels are called ‘ships of the desert’ because they can carry heavy loads – as much as 1000 pounds.

Camels can go for days with little or no water or food.

There are two species of Camel: Camelus (the single humped variety) and Bactrian (the double humped variety).

What’s hot

Virgin Atlantic cabin crew
Virgin Atlantic’s flight attendants have been voted the most attractive in a new survey of travellers. No doubt the airline’s red hot advertising campaign – featuring a bevy of beauties – helped cinch the deal but the fact of the matter is that Sir Richard Branson has always believed that the image of his crew is everything. Or as Virgin’s cabin crew recruitment pages states: “You’ll be the face of the airline. As such your grooming should always be immaculate – even after a long, tiring flight.”
Singapore Airlines took second place – despite only receiving 18 percent of the vote – while Arabic airline Etihad’s cabin crew came in third.

Barratt’s of Tn Rhyl
The small, family-run Barratt’s of Tn Rhyl in north Wales is a hotel that’s easy to love. Even so few would think about checking in for a year but that’s exactly what Australian couple, Chris and Sally Allison, have done! After a particularly warm welcome from owners David and Elvira Barratt, the Aussie duo decided to base themselves at Barratt’s for a year while they explore Europe. The two couples have become ‘like family’ – the antipodeans have even been invited to the wedding of the Barratts’ daughter next year!

Tallinn
This is the year that Estonia’s capital will be catapulted onto the world stage – thanks to its new title as European Capital of Culture. Every year since 1985, one (or more) European cities are awarded the title of European Capital of Culture – providing they promise to highlight the diversity and richness of European culture. As such Tallin, who shares the title with the Finnish city of Turku, will  be hosting multiple art and science exhibits as well as music festivals and events throughout the city during 2011.

Nha Trang
Vietnam’s seaside resort where travellers relax by day and party by night has been voted as one of the world’s top 10 beaches by expedia.com.au. The travel website raved about Nha Trang’s signature beach with its “golden sands and spectacular views of the surrounding mountains” and recommended the lively coastal town as the “gateway to a cluster of quieter islands which offer outstanding snorkelling and scuba diving trips”. Planning a trip to Nha Trang? Aim to watch the sunset while sipping a cocktail in Altitude – Nha Trang’s newest and highest bar (84 58 388 0000). For the more fab things to see and do, check out our travel article: http://www.cd-traveller.com/2011/02/21/beach-bliss-in-vietnam/

Kate Middleton country
Royal wedding fever is sweeping the UK – so much so that excursion company Mortons has started offering coach tours of what it describes as Kate Middleton country. Sights included in the 10 pound tour include St Andrew’s and Marlborough College (the schools she attended as a child and teenager), the church she was christened in and a look at the houses she was raised in. Adam Morton, owner of Mortons, believes the Berkshire tours will prove a hit with overseas tourists.

Affordable Abu Dhabi
Despite the release of Sex and The City 2 – a film starring Sarah Jessica Parker that was set in Abu Dhabi- prices of hotel rooms in Abu Dhabi fell in 2010. The average room cost £168 as opposed to £223 in 2009. The UAE’s capital wasn’t the only emirate to experience a fall in 2010: Dubai’s room rates fell by five percent while elsewhere in the Gulf, Doha’s prices dropped by 10 percent.

Not
Egypt
The Foreign Office is continuing to advise against ‘all but essential travel’ to Egypt’s main cities –including Cairo, Alexandria, Luxor and Suez – following President Hosni Mubarak’s resignation on Friday. Right now, the Red Sea area remains unaffected but there are fears that the unrest could spread. Any CD Traveller readers planning a trip to Egypt, are advised to call the Foreign Office on 020 7008 1500 from the UK or 02 2791 6000 from Egypt.

Visit Britain
With the royal wedding just around the corner and the Queen’s diamond jubilee, the London Olympics and the Paralympics in the diary for 2012, you’d think that Visit Britain – the UK’s national tourism agency – would be adding to its staff, but you’d be wrong. Visit Britain is to cut is staff by up to 30 percent and close offices in 13 countries including the visitors centre in London’s Regent Street. Visit Britain bosses believe that they can deliver their message via smartphones and the internet.

Gap years
The gap year has long been a rite of passage. Indeed this writer enjoyed 12 months of travelling (and working) to the furthest corners of the globe before embarking on university life. However in light of the recent government decision to allow universities to charge up to £9,000 per year from 2012, this year’s school leavers may have to ‘mind the gap’ if they want to avoid the fee hike..

Obtaining a permit for the Inca Trail
Planning on tackling the Inca Trail this year? Don’t be so sure… Changes to the permit system means tour operators will be allocated permits at random and cannot currently confirm permits for the high season months of June, July and August until later this month.

But if vegetarians aren’t ignored, they are often treated with indifference. And while it’s one thing to rule vegetarians out completely, it’s another to recognize their existence and then offer an unappealing, uninspiring token veggie dish that smacks of no effort. It’s a situation that long term Dubai resident, Arti Halligan – whose husband Steve turned vegetarian a few years back – is all too familiar with. “If you go to a nice restaurant, there is usually one dish swimming in cheese or a boiled vegetables options neither of which are very exciting,”’ says Arti. Chefs just don’t look after their non-carnivore diners enough and much of the time vegetarians are forced to get stuck into the bread bowl while their friends salivate over the ‘best steaks in the world’. While carnivores coo over their expertly prepared and beautifully presented entrees, vegetarians are left to pick at an overcooked plate of pasta arrabiatta and the likelihood is that they will leave feeling still hungry. All in all, it’s hardly a dining experience to write home about and vegetarians could be forgiven for thinking that they could have eaten better at home, something Arti acknowledges: “Ever since Steve became vegetarian we tend to eat out less and less as the choices are usually so limited. If we find a place, we usually tend to stick to it. I love More café (04 283 0224) for their pumpkin and feta salad”. Yet as delicious as More’s offering is, even for those passionate about pumpkin, it’s not one that you would want daily.

It has been argued that high profile celebrity chefs such as Gordon Ramsay – the irascible chef almost as famous for his four letter outbursts in the kitchen as for his food – haven’t helped matters. Not content with forcibly ejecting restaurant critics or celebrities from his restaurant, Ramsay’s relationship with our herbivorous brothers and sisters is a notoriously volatile one. The flamboyant former football star has been the bete noir of the vegetarian community since 2005 when he fed meat to a vegetarian in the second series of Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares. He then sparked further outrage when he confessed in an interview to having fed a dish to a vegetarian party that contained chicken stock. Ramsay’s much touted Dubai gourmet venture, Verre (04 227 1111) happens to be one of the worst offenders with vegetarians made to feel they should kneel in gratitude and supplication if Verre can rustle up a non meat dish. Glasshouse (04 227 1111), the restaurant adjacent to Ramsay’s Verre, is a good bet; although the menu is not entirely vegetarian, the meat count is low with lots of imaginative, vegetable based options. Yet for the most part, Glasshouse is in the minority. For while a fast food chain like Burger King manages to offer its customers a surprisingly decent spicy bean burger, most high-end establishments simply don’t seem to know how to prepare an up scale meat-free meal.

Mid range eateries tend to be more accommodating. The Noodle House (04 294 0885) for example, will cook any of their dishes as vegetarian while ex pat favourite, Fibber Magees (04 332 2400) boasts a huge and varied vegetarian menu. But be warned sometimes seemingly innocuous offerings like THE One’s (04 345 6687) celebrated slow roasted tomato soup have actually been cooked in a meat stock and for the most part, non meat eaters would do well to look to other cuisines – notably Indian where you can feast on vegetable curry. But once again, these ethnic venues tend to be at the cheaper end of the scale and unlicensed; reinforcing the lack of fine dining opportunities for vegetarians in Dubai.

It’s a situation that needs to be addressed. The demand is there; Dubai has more vegetarians than people think – they have just been forced to hide in their homes eating dishes by Amy’s Kitchen; a Canadian company whose wholesome organic vegetarian convenience foods from pizza and pot pies to stir fries and soups are stocked in Spinneys (04 355 5251) and the Organic Food shop (04 398 9410).

Essentially then, it is possible to survive as a vegetarian in Dubai, but to thrive? Well that’s an entirely different story. In a city renowned for its happening restaurant scene, veggies are left feeling shortchanged. Still there are signs that Dubai’s growing population of non-meat eaters are biting back and in response some restaurants such as Tang (04 339 3333) at Le Meridien Mina Seyahi have begun experimenting with vegetarian haute cuisine. Often these options won’t appear on the menu, but on request, the chefs will happily conjour up some of the most delicious dishes (sans meat) imaginable, which help dispel the stereotype that veggie dining is Spartan, dull and healthy (many contain butter and cheese). Vegans wouldn’t approve, but even the staunchest of carnivores would do well to give them a try. Who knows, maybe just maybe, a ‘green gourmet’ boom is beginning…

Survival tips for vegetarians in Dubai
For hassle free dining in Dubai, commit a few of the following phrases to memory…

Ana nabatee – I am vegetarian [male]
Ana nabateeya – I am vegetarian [female]
Mish akool lahma walla ferekh khalis – I don’t eat meat or chicken at all
Ana nbattee. Ana laa akul lohhoom – I am vegetarian. I don’t eat any meat