The mysterious Lost Gardens of Heligan in Cornwall – whose 200 acres include a lush sub-tropical jungle, ancient woodlands and a fascinating wildlife project, came out on top according to reviews posted on Qype.co.uk over the last six months. “This place is amazing. Jurassic Park meets modern day gardens. Great for the whole family,” wrote one reviewer.

The Mysterious Lost Gardens of Heligan

The list also features established favourites such as Kew Gardens and Kensington Gardens in London. However they were beaten to second and third place respectively by the less well-known Horniman Museum & Gardens in Forest Hill and Edinburgh’s world-renowned Royal Botanic Garden.

“It’s fantastic to see the Lost Gardens of Heligan recognised by Qype reviewers. It is one of the most interesting, original gardens in the UK and their conservation projects have clearly made a big impression with their visitors,” commented Richard Dennys, Qype’s chief marketing officer.

Qype’s Top 10 UK Gardens

1) The Lost Gardens of Heligan, St. Austell, Cornwall

2) Horniman Museum & Gardens, Forest Hill, London

3) Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh, Edinburgh

4) Kew Gardens, Kew, London

5) Kensington Gardens, Hyde Park, London

6) Belfast Botanic Gardens, Belfast

7) St Ann’s Well Gardens, Hove

Birmingham Botanical Gardens, Edgbaston, Birmingham

9) RHS Garden Wisley, Woking

10) Bodnant Garden, Colwyn Bay

The idea of imposing a controversial tourist tax of up to £1 a night on visitors, was put forward last year as a way of increasing investment in York’s tourism sector.

Fortunately York has followed in the footsteps of Edinburgh (another town that considered charging a tourist tax), and dropped the idea.

It’s a decision that makes sense: with families already feeling financially squeezed, the introduction of a tourist tax could have killed both York and Edinburgh’s tourist trade. On a personal note, I know that I would have chosen other cities ahead of Edinburgh and York had the taxes taken effect.

What doesn’t make sense is that York’s council chiefs didn’t think to check that that the tax could actually be implemented, before announcing their plans to the public?! The fact that the tax was considered is even more curious, given that hotels in York went against the grain and enjoyed a two per cent increase in occupancy rates to 80.8 per cent in 2011, according to hotel figures released by PKF Hotel Consultancy Services.

Coming in the wake of Westminster’s antics, we can’t help but wonder: are all councils run by idiots?

A family holiday in Marrakesh, with two kids in tow who had never ventured anywhere more culturally exotic than the south of France, felt like a potentially complex mix of a holiday, hovering somewhere on the holiday richter scale between challenge and adventure.  We knew that the hustle and bustle of busy souks and assertive traders looking to net their next naïve tourist as they stumbled amongst the narrow medina alleyways with speeding mopeds around every blind corner – had the potential to overwhelm all four of us, just as much as excite. The odd day focused on an activity might, we suspected, feel something of a relief; so when a bit of pre-holiday internet research led us to Lalla Fatima and her one day tagine cookery course I, along with teenage daughter, Kate, suspected we were onto a winner.

Starting early at the spice souk seemed a sensible beginning, as Kate and I, along with nine other tourists, keen to absorb something of the local culture in a potentially more sophisticated way than just having a henna tattoo, gathered around Lalla our guide and teacher for the day, eager to learn more about the unique blend of spices and ingredients required to create an authentic Moroccan tagine – a dish which, according to our own home grown, Jamie Oliver, is best described as a “stew with attitude”.  Slim, with long dark hair and wearing tight jeans and knee length leather boots, Lalla was every inch a successful westernised Moroccan woman – skillfully demonstrating the Moroccan culinary delights handed down to her by her own mother and at the same time creating a well-executed tourism business for herself and her wider family.

Saffron, ginger, tumeric, cumin, pepper and the Moroccan spice blend known as “ras el hanout” were all duly sniffed, tasted and then bought – as Lalla carefully explained their significance in creating a balanced tagine.  Surrounded by Moroccan housewives haggling assertively for their weekly spices, we took our lives into our own hands and headed across the madness that is one of Marrakesh’s roads, towards the meat market.  With the raw and distinctive smell of dead animal wafting all around us, we were asked to choose what type of tagine we each wanted to cook; plumping for chicken I headed off for what was to be our first cultural wake-up call of the day. Remember, of course, that we were hundreds of miles away from our nearest branch of Tesco and the santised plastic covered trays of meat to which we’ve become unhealthily accustomed.  I was asked to choose which of the five chickens nervously eyeing me from the wire cage on the dirty counter would be destined for my tagine pot – the colour began to drain from Kate’s face as we watched the doomed chicken, literally be drained of its life blood, upside down in a rusty tin can, no holds barred hallal style.  As Kate’s turn came she wisely decided, despite being a previously enthusiastic carnivore, that fish tagine would be her “tagine of choice” for the day.

Lalla Fatima (centre) with her Mother and Grandma

On the way to the relatively safe haven of the neighbouring vegetable stalls we purchased freshly made sheets of filo pastry which would later transform into the crispy golden casing for a beautiful aubergine starter.  Lalla sent us off in all directions – her willing helpers for the day – commissioned with purchasing onions, potatoes, courgettes, garlic, salted lemons, olives and fresh herbs; and then, with straw baskets bulging, we piled into awaiting taxis for a 15 minute high speed journey beyond the now familiar walls of the medina and off to the Berber village which Lalla called home.

Our dusty cavalcade soon arrived in the village, though “village” might not be the best description for what looked, to our western eyes, more of a deserted dirt track – with a handful of small high walled riads on either side.  At first sight, the only sign of life was four children playing football barefoot in the dirt, along with of course the obligatory scrawny cats, bones jutting at odd angles beneath flea bitten fur.  A battered wooden door set within the high concrete walls led to Lalla’s family home –a traditional Moroccan house, with well organised vegetable garden and shaded terrace where we would spend our day.  This was an enterprise which included three generations of the family, with  Lalla, ably assisted by Mum and Grandma, having created a successful family business that was thriving on the back of Marrakech’s growing status as a choice destination for those from Europe and beyond.  Lalla confided that her tagine cookery classes were now fully booked seven days a week for the next few months, with custom being brought in largely via the millions of worldwide customers now linked into the delights of TripAdvisor.

A home brew is an intrinsic part of being welcomed into any Moroccan home, and as we sat on brightly coloured cushions, with tiny coloured glasses of steaming, heavily sugared mint tea, the intense madness of our first couple of days in Marrakesh felt just a distant dream.  As we shared tales of our Marrakesh experiences with our fellow tagine devotees, of pummellings in local hammans, exotic botanical gardens and day trips into the High Atlas mountains, we chopped and sliced our vegetables in merry bonhomie.  Lunch, served by family members, was a range of freshly made breads, spiced houmous, rich falafel and plump olives all washed down with more mint tea.   Time was invested by Lalla into explaining the precise use of spices and extra special ingredients which need to be incorporated to create a tagine which had the potential to be talked of for days to come – prunes and almonds with chicken, plump olives and salted lemon with sea bass and fresh dates with lamb shank. All were sprinkled with more salt than we would use in a month back home – our American tourists visibly blanched as Grandma tutted and poured more salt into each tagine dish.

With ingredients blended, spices rubbed lovingly into meat and ingredients piled high, there was a tangible air of expectancy as we carefully nestled our individual tagines onto the hot barbecues.  An hour or so later and regular judicious tasting and adjustments by Lalla and yes, the addition of more salt by Grandma, and our tagines were ready to be devoured.  I can only say that my personally chosen chicken did not die in vain. As we collectively congratulated each other on our newly acquired tagine skills, Lalla and her Mum started preparing for the next day’s cohort, and for creating memories which would last longer than they could have ever dared hope.

Need to know

* Cheap regular flights to Marrakesh now available from Easyjet and Ryanair from most major airports – we flew Ryanair Edinburgh to Marrakesh

* Accommodation :  we stayed at Riad Dar Nimbus in Marrakesh and at Riad L’Ayel d’Essaouira in Essaouira

* Lalla Fatima’s cookery course : nezha_cook@yahoo.com price 500dhm per person – Reviews on Trip Advisor

* Best time of year to visit : April to early June, and September through November to avoid extreme temperatures

* Immunisations : no vaccinations are required by law to enter Morocco, but Typhoid and Hepatitus A are strongly recommended.  It is also a good idea to be up to date with your polio and tetanus vaccines.

For more Middle Eastern food articles, be sure to log onto the CD-Traveller website next week!

No ticket? No problem – Check out FREE events
While most events are ticketed, it’s still possible get in on the action for free. As with everything Olympic related it’s advisable to arrive well in advance for the best seats. Here’s a sampling of some of the free events:

• Men’s and Women’s individual road cycling time trials: taking place on August 1, the starting point is Richmond’s Hampton Court Palace
• Men’s Marathon: taking place in central London on August 5
• Women’s Marathon: taking place in central London on August 12
• Women’s Triathlon: taking place on August 4 (crossing through Hyde Park and Birdcage Walk, Buckingham Palace)
• Men’s Triathlon: taking place on August 7

Escape the crowds: Skip London altogether
Try events taking place outside of London to avoid the crowds and save the pennies. Some venues, such as those for mountain biking, kayaking, rowing and canoeing are a mere 20-50km away. For those venturing further afield, Wales, Scotland and spots along UK coastline will also be hosting Olympic events. Football tournaments (in Manchester, Coventry, Glasgow, Newcastle and Cardiff) and sailing events (in Weymouth Bay and Portland Harbor) will make for a good staycation or quick weekend break.

Follow the torch
Though the torch relay is staying within the UK, as opposed to taking the usual international route, the destinations lucky enough to receive it are still very much worth a visit. The tradition kicks off against a spectacular backdrop in Land’s End on 19 May. By the start of June, the flame will burn through Belfast and Northern Ireland, then to Edinburgh and Scotland by mid-month. The torch will reach the Olympic Stadium on the 70th day – 27 July.

Join the crowds
Immerse yourself in the buzz at the London live sites. From the big three locations in the capital – Hyde Park, Trafalgar Square and Victoria Park – to the 20-plus other locations across the UK, there will be big-screen viewings of medal ceremonies and competitions, free concerts and contests – all designed to include locals and visitors alike in the Olympic experience as it unfolds.

 

Kaye Holland

2011 highlight: Nha Trang (Vietnam)
If you’ve ever wondered what Goa looked like before the hippies or Thailand before the high rise hotels, then Nha Trang could be your last chance to find out. Vietnam’s beach capital may not have previously figured on your mental map, yet when you get there it’s hard to see why not.
Let me paint the picture… the sea is the colour of Bombay sapphire, the sky is perpetually blue and the sand is platinum blonde and squeaks when you walk on it. Right now it’s warm rather than scorching, but six hours of sunshine a day is still a distinct improvement on January in Britain.
To the beach you can add cultural treasures, great surf and dive sites, good retail therapy, lively nightlife, fabulous food and everything from hostels to super swish resorts like the Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa – Nha Trang’s hot new hotel that even Clark Gable would find it impossible not to give a damn about. Pack the t shirt and sunnies and get going – before the developers move in and the spell breaks.

2012 tip: London

2012 promises to be a corker for the English capital. All eyes will be on London come the summer when the city hosts the greatest show on earth – aka the Olympic and Paralympic Games. But it’s not all about the Olympics… there’s also the Queen’s Golden Jubilee celebrations (expect a flotilla on the Thames) to look forward to.
And for those who aren’t mad about the monarchy and/or sport, there’s a myriad of cultural events on the horizon from London Fashion Week in February, to the Mayoral election in May. It’s a cliché I know, but as Samuel Johnson once said: “You’ll find no man, at all intellectual, who is willing to leave London. No, Sir, when a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford.”

Adrian Lawes

Adrian

2011 highlight: Georgia

Svaneti (Georgia)

What I tend to remember are places I’ve not been too before. So in 2011, I was pleased to have seen parts of Georgia and in particular the Svaneti region up in the mountains. It is unspoilt; development is progressing at an astonishing pace and this is my tip for an all-round destination in the future.

I thought I knew the Blue Mountains in New South Wales (Australia) pretty well, but I saw a different side to them last year that many tourists don’t see. Sheer cliffs look down on the valley below and I saw not one person, as I trekked. In was by a four wheel vehicle and at times even that was tricky. Yet, overlooking one cliff was a homemade wooden jump for hang gliders to jump off!

As for destinations at home, the Dingle peninsular in Ireland is always a place to marvel.

2012 tip: Ukraine and Bangladesh
This year, I want to go to Ukraine. My best man has been there 11 times in the last few years and raves about this “undiscovered” country. As well as Ukraine, I will be journeying to Skomer to see the puffins, razorbills and seals in early summer – something I have wanted to do for years – so that will be part of a holiday exploring the new coastal path. Later in the year, Bangladesh beckons. Again, it’s another country largely unvisited by Britons (unless you have relatives there), but I am told the country is one I have to see.

Anthony Lydekker

Anthony

2011 highlight: Tobago
Tobago (http://www.cd-traveller.com/2011/04/19/tobago-warm-place-warm-people/) was my 2011 travel highlight. Even with the high APD  (Air Passenger Duty) tax, one can still get a week’s holiday there for £850 at the end of February: 4 Star hotel , B&B, including flights and transfers.   There have been improvements in 2011:  a new 178 room Magdalena Hotel opened in December on what was a derelict hotel site.  Following the elections in 2011, the newly appointed Minister of Tourism, in London for the World Travel Market, spoke of more investment to come for the Island.  Fingers crossed, this will include better road signs!  Potential visitors should bear in mind that some safety warnings issued in the past about neighbouring Trinidad have never applied to Tobago.

Tobago

2012 tip: France
The current improvement of the Pound to the Euro, makes a hop across the Channel increasingly attractive.   The August Olympics are bang in the middle of the school holidays and not everyone will be flocking to London, an expensive city by any reckoning.  Anecdotal research suggests that some Londoners will be getting out of town for the Olympics simply to avoid the crowds.  My hunch is that France will benefit.  As well as  better weather, France still represents good value for quality meals out and  hotels charge by the room. For families watching their purse strings, the major camp site providers continue  to provide greater comfort with more cabins and mobile homes.  Or, just take a tent and spend the savings on dinners out!

Frédéric Mouren de Poligny

Frédéric

2011 highlight:Karnataka (south west India)
For me, 2011 was the year of Karnataka temples. The discovery of one of the southern states of India where traditional agriculture meets high technology, where rice fields are so close to the Indian ‘Silicon Valley’, was nothing in comparison with the astonishing shock of Hampi temples, scattered among sun dry rocky hills. What’s my best souvenir there? Maybe when, after a long journey through these magnificent ruins and a tasty spicy meal at Mango Tree, a small restaurant directly on the riverside, I decided to go down the river on one of these small coracles, huge round reed baskets, through rapids to reach the Vitthala Temple and its Stone Chariot for sunset. During this strange half-an-hour navigation I was transported back in time, remembering that Alexander the Great himself had to use same coracles during his conquest of the Darius empire to allow his army to cross huge rivers.

2012 tip: South East Asia
South east Asia is set to become hot, in every sense of the word, thanks to the new flights programmes of Vietnam Airlines and Air Asia which help make the region much more accessible.  Imagine holidays mixing a boat trip in Halong Bay, followed by a lazy stay on a fabulous Vietnamese beach before a fabulous cultural tour of the Angkor Temples in Cambodia. Or a long journey through Malaysia, with a beach rest in Langkawi Island, combined with a visit of Pagan temples in Burma. Now with these low budget connections, you should be able to return home with a good knowledge of  Asian cooking and able to know your Pho from your Nem and Nasi Goreng.

Cathrene Rowell

Cathrene and her dog, Poppy

2011 highlight: Edinburgh
I recently spent a wonderfully relaxing day in Edinburgh having made no plans whatsoever other than to visit Hutton’s section. It was James Hutton’s observations at Arthur’s Seat and the Salisbury Crags which provided the foundation to geology today:  deposition of the sedimentary rocks and the formation of the igneous rocks must have occurred at different ages and in a different manner to the geological beliefs of that time. Hutton’s section, visible (and labelled!) in the Salisbury Crags shows clearly where magma forced its way through the sedimentary rocks to form dolerite sills. A walk up here is worth the effort simply for the views from the top.

EdinburghTattoo

2012 tip: Iceland (and other volcanic destinations)
There has been a lot of volcanic activity during the past couple of years, and much as it can be disruptive to travel, active volcanoes are one of the most spectacular geological events that you will ever see happening.    So, my tip – and my dream, I might add – would be to pack up and visit Iceland (of course, not forgetting to add volcano disruption to your insurance!).  Iceland is unique because not only does it lie between the Eurasian and North American plates, on the Mid-Atlantic Rift (where the two plates are pulling apart from each other) but it also lies above the Iceland plume (a hotspot) which causes the volcanism on the island, and results in a range of geological phenomenon, such as geysers.  As such, it is an ever-changing country, of immense geological importance, and extreme beauty.

Clive Summerfield

Clive

2011 highlight: Dumfries and Galloway
The lowlands of Scotland are sometimes overlooked, with the majestic scenery of the highlands attracting more attention. But with coastline reminiscent of Cornwall, historic towns and villages and a variety of visitor attractions covering outdoor activities, whisky and historic monuments, the region has plenty to offer. Truly a hidden gem. And with fuel prices remaining high, being less remote is a bonus.

2012 tip: Staycationing


Staycationing (the ‘art’ of holidaying at home) will continue to be popular as the economy struggles to grow and the threat of unemployment remains. Conversely, some of the more remote destinations in the UK may suffer as high fuel prices– and economic woes in the Euro zone – may make cheap flights abroad appear better value.

Those of us that live in London can allow ourselves to breathe a small sigh of relief. The charges – had they come into effect – would surely have driven away trade from local restaurants and retailers, at a time when both businesses and consumers are facing financial difficulties.

We have said it before and we’ll say it again: people won’t be deterred from visiting the capital because some shop windows were smashed in Clapham, Acton et al during the August riots. Rather, it’s price hikes that will put people off visiting London and the UK – and thereby damage tourism.

Let’s hope that Edinburgh and Cambridge follow in Westminster’s footsteps and change their mind about introducing a tax on entertainment. Edinburgh, Cambridge and Westminster may all need money but boosting their coffers through parking charges and tourist taxes is not the answer.
Update: 17/12/2011. Edinburgh will have no accommodation tax as the Scottish government has refused to transfer the necessary powers to the city

Now word reaches CD-Traveller towers, that Edinburgh is considering charging a £2 per night ‘tourist tax’ to generate extra revenue for the Scottish capital.

Of course Cambridge and Edinburgh aren’t alone in (thinking about) implementing tourist taxes: Vancouver and Venice both introduced tourist taxes earlier this year, to protect their respective cities heritage.

I understand where the cities are coming from but can’t help but question their timing. When families are already feeling financially squeezed, the introduction of a tourist tax could kill both Cambridge and Edinburgh’s tourist trade.

What do you think of the suggested tourist tax? Would you still visit Edinburgh or would the tax force you to think long and hard about checking out Scotland’s capital? Share your thoughts by posting a comment below!

Nimes, France

With its myriad of iconic sites, it is little surprise that Paris is usually a star attraction in any top ten list of historic cities. Yet, for those looking for something a bit different – and with generally warmer climes – the southern city of Nimes should not be overlooked. Not only is it home to a myriad of beautifully preserved Roman remains, including an amphitheatre that outshines the Colosseum, but its convenient location amidst the ancient and medieval treasures of Orange, Arles and Avignon make it the ideal base from which to explore the south. What’s more, this little known historic haven offers a much quieter sightseeing experience than other cities.

Rome, Italy

As the capital of one of the greatest ancient civilisations in history, Rome is simply bursting with historic wonders, making it a tempting city break for any traveller. Indeed, whether it’s the rugged grandeur of The Colosseum, the bygone beauty of the Roman Forum or the drama of the Pantheon, many of its sites rank amongst the best known in the world. Nevertheless, as a city that continues to invest in archaeological discovery, Rome holds some surprises for even the seasoned history fan. Even in the midst of the tourist quarter, places such as the ancient Mamertine Prison hide in plain sight, while outside the main city, the ruins of Ostia Antica and the meandering sites along the Via Appia Antica offer an alternative to the more popular tourist trail.

Lisbon, Portugal

A tantalising mix of bustling streets, vibrant culture and the accolade of being one of Europe’s sunniest capitals, Lisbon is also brimming with historic places. Whether it’s the Lisbon National Pantheon where many of Portugal’s late and great are buried, the medieval citadel of St George’s Castle or the dramatic beauty of World Heritage sites such as Belem Tower and Jeronimos Monastery, this is a place with plenty of history on show.

Berlin, Germany

For those interested in modern history, few places offer such an array of authentic and fascinating sites as Berlin. The dark corridors of the Berlin Stasi Prison, the famed Checkpoint Charlie, the moving visage of The Holocaust Memorial and the remains of the Berlin Wall are just some of the historic giants that reside in this cosmopolitan metropolis, offering tourists and historians alike the opportunity to really explore this period in time. However, this capital’s history and evidence of it does not stop at the 20th century. Whether it’s the Romanesque charm of Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, the 18th century magnificence of Brandenburg Gate or the vast collections of the city’s museums, there’s a world of history to explore.

Merida, Spain

Merida may not be the first place that comes to mind for that well-deserved break, but this is one Spanish city with a whole host of surprises, particularly for anyone with a penchant for dramatic ruins. Once a regional capital of the Roman Empire known as Augusta Emerita, modern day Merida is peppered with proof of its illustrious past. For example, the impressive Merida Amphitheatre sits proudly beside the partly reconstructed, picturesque Merida Roman Theatre, while Guadiana Bridge and The Los Milagros Aqueduct  represent apt reminders of the robust nature of Roman engineering.

Edinburgh, Scotland

Iconic, imposing and with a story traced back to ancient times, the historic icon that is Edinburgh Castle overlooks this magnificent city, providing a fitting place to start exploring its fascinating past. Yet, whilst its importance as a site cannot be overstated, this world famous celebrity of the sightseeing world provides a mere glimpse into the other attractions on offer. Both within the city and around it, historic treasures abound such as the royal residence of Holyroodhouse Palace, the enigmatic Rosslyn Chapel and the medieval charm of Craigmillar Castle, to name but a few.

Budapest, Hungary

History lovers on the lookout for a city with an eclectic mix of sites should certainly consider Budapest. For, while the Hungarian capital doesn’t obviously advertise its historic heritage, it does have quite a selection of fascinating places. There’s the fairy tale beauty of the 19th century Fisherman’s Bastion, the medieval Matthias Church with its royal connections and, of course, Buda Castle with its many museums, whilst sites such as the Roman ruins of Aquincum and the tragic modern history museum of the House of Terror shed light on lesser known aspects of the city’s past.

St. Petersburg, Russia

For ecclesiastical grandeur mixed with centuries of history, St. Petersburg is quite a city to see. From the colourful onion-domes of the Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood to the 19th century splendour of Kazan Cathedral, inspired by the Basilica of St Paul of Rome, the churches and cathedrals of this city represent a diversity of architecture, influences and social mores depending on the era. Two leaders who left their marks here were Peter the Great – responsible for illustrious attractions such as Alexander Nevsky Lavra and The Peter and Paul Fortress – and Lenin, whose onetime headquarters, The Smolny Institute, now house a museum dedicated to the man. St. Petersburg is also home to The Hermitage, one of the world’s most celebrated museums with an impressive array of exhibits from throughout history and around the globe.

Prague, Czech Republic

A stunning cityscape, rich culture and a captivating past are just some of the attributes which make Prague such a tourist hotspot. The best known of its attractions is probably Prague Castle, the vast World Heritage listed medieval complex with its myriad of sites, galleries and museums. Medieval is in fact definitely the main theme which meanders through Prague’s pretty streets, with treasures such as the famous Charles Bridge and the Old Town Hall with its celebrated astronomical clock vying for sightseer attention. Beyond this fascinating era, places such as the Communism Museum focus on other facets of this city’s history.

Stockholm, Sweden

It may not boast megastars such as The Eiffel Tower or The Tower of London, but Stockholm should not be underestimated for its historic pull. In particular, its old town, Gamla Stan, houses a labyrinth of medieval marvels to discover, all connected by cobbled streets and imbued with North-Germanic influences. Here you can see the burial site of Swedish royalty, the 13th century Riddarholm Church, as well as the tragic plaza of Stortorget, site of a 16th century massacre. There is also a range of museums, including the Vasa Museum, which holds what is said to be the world’s sole surviving 17th century warship. Add to this selection, the intrinsic beauty of its many islands and local charm and Stockholm really holds its own as a city break location.

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