Oman

The Sultanate of Oman has shaken off the dust gathered through decades of hermit like exile on the world stage, to emerge as one of the world’s most alluring destinations and it doesn’t take a genius to work out why.
The country is blessed with beautiful beaches, azure waters, rugged mountains, spectacular medieval fortresses, ancient ruins, spectacular dune studded scenery and gossipy, garrulous souks – where you can pick up anything from frankincense and fridge magnets to cushion covers and khanjar daggers and still have change from a fiver. In short, Oman matches the Middle East of your imagination.
Oman is also a dream destination for adventure tourists who will find no shortage of activities including climbing (the Al Hajar Mountains, stretching from Musandam in the north of the country to the south-eastern town of Sur are particularly impressive), caving and diving; there are plenty of world class diving locations just begging to be explored. Add to this a population that is as proud as it is friendly, year round sunshine and an enviable environmental record and you’ll soon see why an ever increasing contingent (myself included) have found themselves charmed by Oman.

South Africa

After a few grim decades, when the thought of schlepping to South Africa and feeling the sun on your face was heavily tempered by the spectre of violent crime, the country is once again back on the map (thanks to last year’s World Cup), having firmly established itself as a travellers’ haven.
And rightly so. South Africa has awesome mountains (from the snow capped peaks of the Drakensberg Range to Table Mountain which overlooks ‘the fairest cape’ of them all), world class beaches, excellent surf spots, game reserves galore and vibrant cities: step forward Johannesburg and Cape Town. For a change of pace, tour along the garden route to go whale watching in Hermanus or sip a superb wine in Stellenbosch or Franschoek.
Of course it’s not all vines and fine wines and certainly there’s no getting away from the fact the country has another face; aids is all pervasive (South Africa has one of the highest HIV/AIDS infection rates in the world) and poverty is very real. Nonetheless don’t be deterred from visiting because above all a triumphant spirit prevails. What’s more despite the hassle of a relatively long flight (swallow some sleeping pills and you’ll be none the wiser), getting there is actually the easy part. The hardest part is coming back…

Thailand

Some holiday destinations are like a loaf of bread; they go stale over time as the tourist traffic picks up. Not so in the case of Thailand which remains one of the peak experiences in travel.
Palm fringed beaches, magnificent mountains, romantic soaring hills, Buddhist temples, happy herds of elephants, superb dive sites, vibrant metropolises, lively nightlife, fabulous food (the country is dedicated to filling you up), and everything from budget backpacker joints to super swish resorts are all yours for the taking. Then there’s the Thais themselves – charming and hospitable, they always have time to talk and are ready to engage in a spot of ‘sanuk’ (fun). What more could you want? Bargain prices? Well since you ask, there’s that too with a week in Thailand setting you back the same as a week-end in Britain. Hmm, tough choice…
So where to start? Thailand’s chaotic capital, Bangkok, is the usual target with its temples and tuk tuks, cocktails and clubs. Other popular places include the ‘Rose of the north’ that is Chiang Mai and the tropical island paradise of Phuket, but truth be told Thailand is full of treasures and you’re guaranteed a good time wherever you go…

UAE

Considering the country was only formed in 1971, the UAE (or United Arab Emirates to give it its full name) hasn’t half hogged the headlines with its overwhelming ambition and single minded pursuit of superlatives –  the seven star hotel, the man made islands, the world’s tallest tower…. Throw into the mix the three s’s – that’s sun, sea and shopping –  and the fact that this dazzling desert kingdom is a none too arduous seven hour flight away, and it’s easy to see why tourists are flocking to the UAE in their droves.
It hardly needs to be said that Dubai – a favourite with footballers and their wives – entertains the most tourists thanks to its sky scrapers, mega malls and world class restaurants, but away from the bling there are six other emirates that also have plenty to offer. The country’s capital, Abu Dhabi, is only a short two hour drive south of Dubai. Closer still is Sharjah and Umm Al Quwain – two emirates offering a more traditional Arabian experience. Tucked away at the northern tip of the UAE lies Ras Al Khaimah where adventures seekers can scale the Hajar Mountains, while to the east is the emirate of Fujairah; here you’ll find superb snorkelling and diving.
Even better, at this time of year there are scores of exceptionally good value deals to the UAE meaning you can explore, enjoy and see for yourself the ‘Cinderella story’ of the travel industry – even if you don’t boast the budget of a footballer’s wife.

Keep an eye out too for the Nepal pavilion where vendors Amit and Amar sell an arsenal of irresistible goods. The duo who are prone to flirting with their customers, live, breathe and sleep their business…Amar told us that he sees selling Nepalese goods at Global Village partly as a way of showcasing his country’s heritage and handicrafts, but the bottom line is that he – like all the other vendors – is here to do business and professionally, Global Village is the best place to be. It’s also an exciting one, claims Amar, as you’re selling to such a varied crowd. Products such as thangka (Tibetan ritual paintings depicting Buddha’s life story) and attractive jewellery made of silver and semi  precious stones are just darling; it’s easy to become hysterical over them and their low prices. You can also pick up a singing bowl – made from an alloy of metals – which produces a continuous harmonic ringing when rubbed around the rim with a wooden pestle. Held near the navel, the singing bowl is said to resonate with the body and aid meditation.

Of course being in the Middle East, you really can’t leave without checking out the Arabian pavilions – Jordan, Syria, Morocco, Yemen, Qatar, Bahrain, Oman et al are all present and correct. Here you can pick up souvenir sized slices of Arabia such as sheesha pipes, juicy dates and Middle Eastern music to chill out to or practise belly dancing to back home. Other items worth snapping up include a dishdasha – the national dress of many Islamic countries (and a solution to the age old problem of what to wear at the next fancy dress party!) and oud. Westerners may prefer fragrances by Calvin Klein and co but Arabs still favour the headier scent of oud – which was used to mask the smell of perspiration in life before air conditioning – and is sold in jewel encrusted bottles. Arabian oud is considered an aphrodisiac so if you can’t rekindle a romance after applying some oud, it’s over…

Perambulating around the pavilions can take its toll on your legs – but a better alternative to going back to your hotel to put your feet up, is to take yourself to the Thailand pavilion (there’s no need to travel to Thailand to find your inner chi) where there are outlets available for relieving any aches. They tend to be no frills joints and a far cry from the sumptuous spas attached to Dubai’s five star hotels (at Dhs100 for an hour long massage, what do you expect?) – but the massages administered here are highly effective in kneading your body back to functionality.

Chances are you’re also bound to have worked up an appetite after trawling around the pavilions. Walking into the restaurant region is a bit like walking into an episode of Friends; everybody looks happy to be there. Thanks to the wonderfully cheap prices, you owe it to yourself to dismiss any notion of a post Christmas diet and travel your tastebuds. To wet the appetite, you could start off with  dim sum (delicious Chinese dumplings stuffed with meat), before moving onto a main of rice and dhal (the Subcontinent is united in its love for lentils and rice) or inihaw (grilled fish or meat from the meat mad Philippines). For a sugar hit, try wickedly rich sweets like gulab jamon (deep fried balls of dough soaked in rose flavoured syrup from India) or the tasty Thai dish of mango and sticky rice. Wash your global gastronomic feast down with a slosh of freshly squeezed juice or a strong cup of Turkish coffee.

Between refreshment breaks and bouts of buying, there’s a myriad of entertainment options to keep you inside Global Village’s gates well into the wee small hours… the village brings together music shows, cultural exhibitions and demonstrations and dancers; on our last visit the place was packed, the music was blaring and everyone was having a good time watching Sri Lankan dancers strut their stuff. Another evening, you might catch Chinese opera or whirling dervishes, while everyday there’s a dazzling fireworks display. Meanwhile ankle biters will be kept occupied, entertained and amused by the Fun Fair area – home to every kind of rollercoaster and ride under the sun plus games galore…

Yes, there’s little not to like about Global Village; the only downside is that whatever you take home, won’t be enough – this really is one of the best places in Dubai to splosh your dosh under the stars. But even if you’re not buying, this part fun fair, part world souk is a compelling place to visit representing as it does a great way to embrace different cultures and ways of life from around the world. If you haven’t done so already, do think about visiting…

Global Village runs until 28 February 2011^. For more information, visit www.globalvillage.ae.nes

HOT
Adventure Travel
“Staring into the smouldering eyes of a tiger from the back of an elephant in India’s Kanha National Park” has been hailed as the world’s greatest travel adventure by a jury of travel luminaries including Lonely Planet founder Tony Wheeler, explorer Benedict Allen, and broadcaster Simon Calder.
Skiing on Asahidake in Japan was voted in at second place and diving with hammerhead sharks in the Galapagos in third. An encounter with mountain gorillas in Rwanda took fourth place while hiking the Inca Trail in Peru and exploring the Larrapinta Trail in Australia’s Northern Territory were placed equal fifth.

Go east
A growing number of travellers are swapping Spain’s Balearics for Eastern Europe’s Baltics according to the website Cheapflights.co.uk. Latvia and Estonia are leading the two most popular destinations with over 60 percent increase in flight searches since last year.

Picture this
Calling all budding David Baileys… why not enter your standout holiday snaps in Frommer’s new competition? The winner not only gets their picture on the cover of one of Frommer’s invaluable guidebooks but also walks away with a $5,000 cheque which you can use on your next trip. To find out more about the competition which closes on March 31, visit www.frommers.com

Moscow on the cheap
Capitalising on the success of its London and Brighton branches, budget hotel group Umi hotels is set to open a property in Moscow. “Value accommodation is sorely needed in a city renowned for being expensive,” says Steve Lowy, owner of Umi hotels. Visit www.umihotels.com for the full low-down.

Affordable Oz
Always wanted to visit the land down under? It’s time to take that trip reports long haul tour operator, Travelmood. “Airlines to Australia and New Zealand are offering extremely competitive prices on 2010 flights, making the country very affordable for visiting” says Rad Soffronijevic, managing director of Travelmood. Alongside Australia, the company has also identified Thailand as a destination that is offering the best value deals in 2010.

Berlin for all budgets
The latest EasyHotel is set to open in Berlin on March 8. Located in Hackescher Mark, the 125 room orange hued hotel is offering double rooms from as little as £10 per night. Book your bargain bed at www.easyhotel.com

Trips to Taiwan
Fancy a trip to Taiwan? China Airlines will launch the first non-stop flights to Taipei from London on March 28. The new service will operate three times a week.

Phoning a friend
Oman Air will be the first airline in the world to offer full mobile phone and Wi-Fi access for passengers in board its Airbus A380 fleet. The new service will be rolled out this month.

NOT

BA’s behaviour
British Airways cabin crew could strike yet again later this year, grrrr. The union representing the airline staff said its members would vote on whether to proceed with a strike later in the year. The silver lining if you’re looking for one is that BA staff won’t strike over Easter.

SW10
Earls Court Exhibition Centre – one of London’s most famous music and exhibition venues – faces demolition in 2012after coming under increasing pressure from rivals the 02 Arena and Excel Centre. Word is that the art deco building which for more than 70 years has hosted some of the world’s biggest musical acts including Kylie, Madonna and Beyonce, is likely to be replaced by up to 8,000 new flats.

Nasser Al-Wahaibi, CEO, Oasis Tours
“I usually wake up at around 6.30am and in the office by 7.30am where I remain until 1pm. I then head home for lunch – most people in Muscat do – before returning to the office. My afternoons are spent designing packages and planning the tours that are taking place this week. Oasis’ tours are tailor made which means exactly that. We tailor make a tour to suit the tourist as an individual; after all not everyone wants to rise at 6am when on vacation to catch a bus with tons of other tourists… We say to our clients: ‘What time would you like to leave?’ We personalise our tours, but we don’t do ‘big’. We’re not into coach loads of tourists. When we do something, we do it with quality. Our custom mainly comes from Germany and Switzerland.

I usually leave the office around 8pm and will perhaps meet a friend or a client before returning home for dinner. We – my wife who is from Japan and three daughters – eat and catch up on each other’s days. The children then practise their instruments. My eldest is a flutist, the middle one plays the piano, and the youngest the violin. Together they make up the Al Wahibi trio and they are pretty famous here in Muscat. They are in demand and have played at hotels, private parties etc. There is this theory that Omanis can’t make classical music, but that’s not true. We have a competition called ‘Young Musician of Muscat’ and all three girls have reached the final; Intisar has even won it twice proving that you don’t have to be a member of the Oman Royal Symphonic Orchestra to be a classical musician. I am a very proud Dad.  My house was built back in November 2004 and I designed it to contain a music room for the children on the ground floor. While they’re practising, my wife and I will discuss any issues or subjects regarding the children, but we are always in bed by 11pm.”

Aldo Bertagna, General Manager of the Oman Dive Centre (ODC)
“I’ve always been interested in watersports but I learnt quite late. I was 20 years old but diving can be an expensive sport and it wasn’t until I was 20 that I had some money. I am relatively new to Muscat having arrived at the ODC in June 2007. I worked for Extra Divers in Egypt for three years before moving to the Maldives, but I wasn’t overly happy there. I heard that there was an opening at the ODC and so after only four months in the Maldives, I moved to Muscat. Oman has been very welcoming to me and compared to Egypt, I am able to live a normal life. I was 300km from the nearest town in Egypt and so pretty much trapped in the dive resort. I live on site here, but of course Muscat proper is only 20 minutes away.

ODC’s main clientele is from Germany and Switzerland but this isn’t unusual as 75 per cent of the world’s diving market is from Germany and Switzerland. Neither the Swiss nor the Germans have access to the sea, which explains – I think – why diving holidays are so popular with them. On a typical day, I wake up at 6am and am in the office by 8am. I’ll catch up on any admin and emails until 9.30am when I’ll stop for breakfast at Odyssey – our onsite dive restaurant. After breakfast, I’ll help with the maintenance of the dive centre or occasionally lead a dive expedition – Muscat’s waters are more populated with fish than the Red Sea or the Maldives. Afternoons are spent in the office doing yet more admin work and I usually finish at around 6pm and have a quick check over the premises. Sometimes, I’ll go into town for a wander around, otherwise I will have dinner at the centre – it’s quite magical to eat while listening to the sound of the waves crash onto the shore. On my day off, I’ll perhaps go and do some shopping at City Centre mall, or else will take a trip into the desert. I have no plans to leave Muscat; I love it here and feel very at home. Compared to Europe – I’m from Italy – it’s a cheap place to live. I like the lifestyle that living in Oman affords me; you can actually afford to fill your car up with petrol and to eat out – Turkish House is a particular favourite. Oh – and then there’s the weather…”

Sultan Alabdli, lead break dancer with SNK – a popular Omani break dancing group
“I was born in Tanzania but came to Oman when I was five months old so Muscat is definitely my home. I am a break dancer with SNK (which stands for ‘Serve & Knock’) breakers. There were no break dancers in Oman before 2001. I first came across break dancing when I was in Malaysia and was so impressed that I bought the group’s DVD to show my friends in Muscat. Break dancing appeals because it is new and exciting – it’s like taekwondo (a martial art that is my other love) – only better. I held open auditions to recruit six other potential breakers and before I knew it, SNK was born. The youngest breaker is 12 years old and I am the oldest at 24. Word of mouth is our main means of advertising. We won the ‘Bring it on Bahrain 2006’ street competition, which led to us performing at shows, hotels and parties all over Muscat. We’ve also performed for four consecutive years in the annual Muscat Festival. At the moment, SNK are part time, but ideally we want to be full time breakers.  So what do I do, when I am not working with SNK?  I teach taekwondo which I have a black belt in. I started taekwondo when I was eight and teach it every afternoon. The schedule suits me, as I am not a 9am-5pm person. I usually wake up at 11am – I am not a morning person, although my Mum will say that I’m just lazy! I live with my family – my parents plus my four brothers and four sisters, all of whom are older than me. One of my brothers is married and his wife and two children live with us as well. This is normal in Oman. I’ll catch up on my emails, update the SNK website and have lunch – usually rice – with my family, before getting ready for my classes. Typically, I teach taekwondo from 3-7pm every day. When I have finished teaching, I meet up with the other members of SNK to practise and perfect our moves. The problem is finding somewhere to practise…we used to rent a room, but the rent became so high that we had to give this up. For the time being we practise for at least an hour every day on the beach, in parks etc but obviously it’s not ideal.

I’ll usually reach home at about 11pm and will check my emails again, before calling it a night around 2am. Friday is my one day off from taekwondo, but SNK meets seven days a week; we are very dedicated. I hope that SNK becomes a big success, but even if this happens I wouldn’t leave Muscat. I can’t imagine living anywhere other than Oman – it’s a beautiful place and everyone is so friendly and hospitable.”

Devie Eviandhini, Manager of Muscat’s Essence Spa
“I arrived in Muscat in October 2007 directly from Thailand where I had been working in the spa industry. I was in Bahrain for two years (1995-1997) and so was already familiar with the Gulf region. I enjoyed my time in Bahrain and when the opportunity to work in Oman came up, I went for it. My colleagues in Thailand warned me that I would find Oman too restrictive, but Muscat is freer than people think. Okay, so I wouldn’t walk around in tiny shorts and skirts, but nor do I have to wear long robes which is the preconception people have back home.

Most mornings, I wake up at 7am. The spa is only a 15 minute drive away from where I live, so I am usually in the office by 7.30am. I’ll check appointments and make sure that everything is okay with my staff. We have 16 beauty therapists hailing mainly from the Philippines and Thailand, although there is also one Omani. We are about to introduce yoga classes in addition to beauty treatments, so right now I am busy finalising all the details. The spa scene in Oman is still in its infancy compared to say Thailand and Indonesia, which is where I am from. In Asia, people have had massages since they were born! Our Grandmothers performed beauty rituals like body massages, wraps and scrubs on us. Beauty treatments in Asia are the norm – it’s a way of life. This line of thought hasn’t quite caught on yet over here and it will take time. Most evenings I like to do something – it is my way of relaxing and winding down after a long day at work. I am a member of a gym and try to go three to four times a week.  I am also doing an online study course in spa and hospitality management with the University of California.

Unlike many spas, Essence is open on Fridays but Friday is my day off. One of my favourite things to do on a day off is to venture into the desert. Last month I went on a desert crossing – amazing! Watching the sunset over the toffee coloured sun was one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen; I can’t wait to return. It was after the desert crossing that I went from liking Oman to loving it.

On other week-ends, I like to have breakfast by the beach at D’Arcy’s Kitchen – the breakfasts here are legendary in Muscat. Khargeen caffe is another favourite hangout. It’s a great place to sit under the trees and smoke shisha with friends. I have found it fairly easy to make friends in Muscat. There are lots of bars and classes such as salsa, which makes it easy to meet people – and everyone in Muscat is so friendly. That’s one of the things I like most about Muscat. That –

and the fact that it is such a peaceful place. I just wish there were a few more shops; there isn’t much choice…How long will I remain in Muscat? When I first arrived, I decided to take each day as it comes, but Muscat has really gotten under my skin. I want to discover more of Oman, to know more about the country and the people, so I’ll easily be here for another couple of years.”

Phillip Stallwood aka ‘Mr Music of Muscat’
“I wake up at 6.45am but am fortunate in that it only takes me all of 30 seconds to get to work as my apartment is in the same block as my office! I realise that this is quite a luxury. My friend and colleague Nasser (see above), is the boss of Oasis Tours and I am the director of our mirror company, Oasis Music. At the moment, it’s a small music school – we’re focusing on quality. There are a number of music schools in Muscat, but we’re the only ones that have accreditation and are registered under the government. This is important; I mean if you bought a car, you would do your research in advance, right? The same goes for music schools as the quality and expertise of the instructors varies greatly. I tend to work in the office until lunch time and then teach pretty much all afternoon in my apartment. I teach the piano, the organ, singing and music theory – whichever instrument you learn, you have to learn the theory of music. But I also wear other hats. For example I also look after the music at The Chedi Hotel, where on Saturday, Sunday and Thursday evenings, I perform as part of a jazz group. It’s very popular, and not just with in-house guests.

With a bit of luck, I’ll get home at 11pm and will turn in at 1am when I have squeezed in some family time and caught up on emails etc.  Sure, it’s a long day, but you get used to it and I am passionate about what I do. I wake up and look forward to each new day – every day is different and I know I am lucky in this respect.

I came to Muscat by accident. I was the Director of Music in the UK and out of the blue, was offered a post with the Royal Oman Symphony Orchestra. I arrived thinking that I would stay for a year, but have been here ever since. The weather is fabulous and I honestly can’t think of anywhere better suited to bringing up a family – I met my wife (an accountant) in Muscat and we have a 16 month year old son. Plus expatriates can now buy property, something we have taken up advantage of. Yes, Muscat is most definitely our permanent home.”

The same applies to Oman. Tourism attracts 2 million people (about the same as Abu Dhabi). But they have a strong commitment to diversify away from oil. That will take some years but Oman, like many countries see tourism as a perennial support for the economy and investment now should reap benefits down the line. Tourism grew by 11% this year and whilst it has yet to have the appeal of Dubai, it has the cash to develop attractions and reasons why we should visit it.  (more will be added after WTM)

While there is no denying Muscat’s many charms, there’s so much more to Oman than merely Muscat; to judge a country on its capital is the equivalent of saying that you’re intimately acquainted with the US because you’ve had a Big Mac.

No matter how short your stay is in Oman, the Musandam Peninsula – blessed as it is with some of the Sultanate’s most sublime landscapes – repays a visit. Rooted in history and heritage, life in the Peninsula moves at a more sedate pace than Muscat and Western influences are minimal. The area boasts an embarrassment of riches – think breathtaking fjords, craggy mountains, small fishing villages and crystal clear waters – all of which combine to make Musandam a slice of Arabian paradise.

Yet the region is often overlooked by many visitors to the Sultanate and understandably so. Separated from the rest of the country by the UAE’s east coast, Musandam is closer to bling bedecked Dubai than the Omani capital, and therefore not the easiest destination to reach. But word is getting out about the ‘Norway of Arabia’ and more and more people are making the journey. Our advice therefore is to go now and enjoy this gem of an enclave before over development hits and mass tourism swamps the village like atmosphere.
 

Making the most of Musandam
As a first port of call in the Peninsula, the charming fishing village of Dibba is as good as any. Dibba (or Daba as the Omanis call it) is famous in Islamic history as the site of one of the great battles of the Ridda War. Adventures abound and can include exploring ancient burial grounds (the Queen of Sheba was reportedly buried here), mountain biking, kayaking and trekking into isolated villages. CD Traveller can vouch for Absolute Adventure’s Aqaba Lima trek which departs Dibba and leads up to ancient Bedouin villages – a million miles away from modernity. It’s not easy; in parts it’s a steep, sweaty struggle up steps carved into rocks and slippery paths made of sand and rubble passing abandoned homesteads, graveyards and mosques until you reach the top where the land flattens out. Persevere however; it’s well worth the effort as the views from the top are simply stunning, providing a unique aerial perspective of the rugged, limestone cliffs before you descend down the other side to the town of Lima. Here you can rest for a while with errant, grazing goats over lunch in Lima’s lush date plantation before catching the boat – passing deserted caves, coves and cliff faces – back to the Absolute Adventure centre in Dibba.

A more idle option is to head to Dibba Bayah harbour where you can watch the fishermen’s boats bob up and down. But of course if you prefer a traditional sand, sea and sun holiday, then there’s deserted beaches to laze on, azure Arabian waters to float in and when you’re ready for action, the underwater kingdom to explore; Musandam is believed to offer some of the best diving in the world and anyone wanting to take the plunge will be rewarded with a rainbow of colourful sea life.

From Dibba, make an unforgettable day trip by boat to nearby Zighy village which has the relaxed tempo of another era. Zighy is also home to the luxurious Six Senses Hideaway which is putting Musandam on the map. The resort was conceived by the eco conscious Eva and Sonu Shivdasni who have a philosophy of designing buildings that reflect the cultural heritage of their surroundings. Thus villas are unmistakably Arabic owing to details like white washed walls, stone floors and wooden chess sets – making it a great retreat for travellers who value authenticity.

There are few absolute must do’s in Khasab but one essential is to take a cruise on a distinctive dhow (traditional Arab wooden sailing boat); the only way to really see the spectacular fjords. As the vessel powers through the water, keep your eyes peeled for playful pods of dolphins – frequent visitors to the region’s waterways. The best cruises take in beautiful off –the- beaten- track inlets and islands like Khor Sham – with its stone fishing villages – and Telegraph Island where the British laid the first telegraph cable in 1864 from India all the way to Basra in Iraq. Forget all thoughts of landing though – the island is still used for military exercises. Time permitting, push on and check out Kumzar, an ancient village replete with stone houses whose inhabitants speak their own language, Kumzari; a combination of Farsi, Hindi, English, Arabic and Portuguese.

Once you’ve gotten the capital out of the way, wander west and continue your cultural odyssey in Bukha – known for its impressive fort. Built in the 17^th century (and recently restored in 1990), the fort guarded Bukha town and harbour against attack from the sea for many years. Prisoners used to be pegged to the lower courtyard and drowned by the incoming tide. Nearby lies another old Fort, Al Qala’a, although it’s arguably only for history buffs as with the exception of the remains of one watchtower, there’s very little to see. Suffering from fort fatigue? Beyond Bukha, lies the village of Tawi; the main draw here are prehistoric rock carvings of animals, boats and warriors. If you’re after something more active, head inland by 4×4 to Jebel Harim, Musandam’s highest peak at just under 7,000 ft. Scaling a mountain is an exhilarating experience; another is to watch the sun sink slowly behind the mountains in the evening while planning your return. There’s something slightly magical about Musandam and as Arabian experiences go, this is as authentic as it gets.

Best beds
Up until recently, accommodation options have been few and far between with the Golden Tulip Khasab being the main draw. It’s a fine four-star hotel, but certainly no lap of luxury. Likewise the Tulip’s tariffs are hardly tailored to meet the demands of the budget conscious. Fortunately the arrival of two new properties straddling both ends of the price spectrum has helped redress the balance somewhat, meaning that regardless of whether you’ve run out of rials or have oodles of cash to splash, there are now an accommodation options that match your bank balance but will exceed your expectations.
 

Absolute Adventures
For those who don’t boast the budget of a footballer’s wife, Absolute Adventures’ blissfully affordable beachfront fortress in Dibba is your best bet. British company founder Paul Oliver bought the local stone built bungalow four years ago having seen the site from the road and fallen in love with the property. Accommodation is dormitory style (14 bunk beds although there is one double room), but is clean, comfortable and close to the beach. The grounds boast a number of features including a covered majlis that lends itself well to evening shisha sessions, a waterfall, swaying hammock, cluster of almond, fig and lemon trees, and a towering sea facing barasti hut that makes a sizzling hot sundowner spot. The cosy and welcoming atmosphere is boosted by helpful staff – from the man in charge to the five- star chef who produces freshly prepared, hearty homemade meals.

For more information visit www.adventure.ae.

Six Senses Hideway Zighy Bay
Musandam has never been known for its high thread count offerings, but it’s tout change on the peninsula and when it comes to top notch accommodation, Zighy Bay can’t be beaten. Arriving at this new resort takes some doing and is far from an understated affair. Guests can arrive by a 4X4 following a dramatic drive along rough, cliff hugging roads or in style by speed boat which affords spectacular views across the Strait of Hormuz. If however your idea of adventure involves a serious adrenaline rush, paraglide in with the Hideaway’s professional paraglider.

The property itself oozes elegant sophistication. From the outside the stone villas look like simple mountain dwellings, but inside each abode boasts vast beds and beautiful bathrooms (the power of the rain shower would delight any diva) while you barely have to walk two steps out of the sliding door to your own infinity pool. Those that prefer to be pampered can indulge in a treatment or two at the Six Senses spa. Nightlife revolves around restaurants – there’s an excellent menu in place at the resort’s Dining on the Sands restaurant and the exquisite food is as good as you’ll find in Muscat.

To find out more visit www.sixsenses.com/hideaway-zighybay

Ode to Oman

Forget the UAE. This time around it’s Oman that is stealing the show…

Oman is having a moment. Just ask Peter Greenberg – the award winning travel editor for NBC’s Today Show – who has hailed the Arab state as a hot and affordable (important in these credit crunch times) destination, and one of his own personal favourites. Conde Nast Traveller’s online sibling, www.concierge.com, and Vogue have also dubbed the Sultanate as one of this year’s must visit spots.

Frankly this comes as no surprise to the CD-Traveller team. Oman’s showy next door neighbour – the bling bedecked emirate of Dubai – may dominate the headlines, but if it’s an authentic taste of Arabia that you’re after few places can match Oman.

Blessed with beautiful beaches, rugged mountains, medieval fortresses, ancient ruins and one of the best souks in the Middle East, Oman offers much for the traveller willing to explore and experience more than crowded shopping malls. Indeed unlike the other Gulf States, the country has managed to modernise itself without turning the Sultanate into a strip of gargantuan shopping centres. Buildings have been designed to reflect the cultural heritage of their surroundings; thus developments are all unmistakably Arabic (on the outside at least) owing to details like white washed walls.

Furthermore, visitors will actually come into contact with locals thanks to Sultan Qaboos’ policy of ‘Omani-isation’. In contrast to its Khaleeji brothers Bahrain, Qatar and the UAE, Oman cannot afford costly expatriate labour and subsequently nationals of both sexes are employed in all sectors of society.

On top of all the above you’ve got guaranteed year round sunshine (ideal for anyone wanting to toast on a sun lounger), and an enviable environmental record. For the most part, the Arab states aren’t known for their enthusiasm for the environment – in fact the region is something of an environmental disaster. Happily, Oman is the exception to the rule. The Sultanate was singled out by the UN Environment programme as a country with exemplary conservation measures meaning that this corner of Arabia is a worthy recipient of your patronage. It needs it too. Compared to the rest of the region, Oman has limited oil reserves and consequently the country’s economy is largely dependent on tourism.

Essentially, if you ever wondered what Dubai and Doha looked like before the high rise hotels this could be your last chance to find out…

Oman’s top 10

Muscat

Muttrah souk
This labyrinth like, gossipy market place could keep you contented for days. Even if you’ve run out of riyals, it’s worth going for the atmosphere alone.

Bait al Baranda
Never mind Muscat, this marvellous museum near the fish souk end of Muttrah Corniche wouldn’t be out of place in world class cities like London – owing to its imaginative, interactive displays. It’s a great place to get to grips with Oman’s past and present.

Khargeen Café
Take a seat in the picturesque garden of this Madinat Qaboos Muscat institution, and quench thirst with a wonderfully refreshing mint juice before puffing out sweet clouds of tobacco from long hookahs.

The Grand Mosque
As any Omani will tell you, this magnificent mosque boasts a ‘Swarovski chandelier and the biggest carpet in the world’ making it well worth a visit.

The Chedi
Checking into this chic hotel – the perfect marriage of attentive Arabic service and modern Asian décor – is easy. The difficulty lies in leaving.

And beyond…

While there’s no denying the capital’s many charms, there is much more to Oman than merely Muscat.

The Musandam Peninsula
Hailed as ‘the ‘Norway of Arabia’, the area’s main draw is its breathtaking fjords, craggy mountains and small fishing villages untouched by modernity. The Peninsula is also the location of the luxurious Six Senses Hideaway Zighy Bay, conceived by the eco conscious Eva and Sonu Shivdasni.

The Underwater world
Oman is often overlooked in favour of the Red Sea. While the Sultanate isn’t quite up there with the Red Sea in terms of visibility, the latter can be as crowded as the London underground during rush hour. In Oman you’ll have the sea to yourself save for stingrays, snappers, schools of colourful reef fish, every species of dolphin and possibly even whales and sharks.

Camel racing
Oman is obsessed with camel racing – so much so that the country even has its own Directorate of Camel Affairs. Spending some time watching these ships of the desert (thankfully robot jockeys are now used instead of child jockeys) racing at speeds of up to 60km/h, should feature on any tourist itinerary.

Be an adventure junkie.
The Sultanate boasts of the best climbing spots in the world; particularly impressive are the Al Hajar Mountains, stretching from Musandam in the north of the country to the south-eastern town of Sur. Alternatively check out the extensive corridors, crystal-clear streams and canals of what is reputedly the planet’s second largest cave: Majlis Al-Jinn.

Salalah
Situated in the southern corner of the country, the city of Salalah is known as the “perfume capital of Arabia’ and famed for its Frankincense trees. It’s popular with Omanis owing to its cooler climate and surprisingly verdant, almost tropical landscape.